Thekkady

Thekkady, in Idukki district, is the entrance to the Periyar Tiger Reserve, one of the best-known protected areas in India. The town of Kumily, right next to it on the Tamil Nadu border, is where most visitors stay, shop and set out from.

At the heart of the reserve is Periyar Lake, formed when the Mullaperiyar Dam was built across the Periyar river in 1895. Dead tree stumps still stand in the water. Boat trips on the lake are the easiest way to see the forest, and elephants, gaur and sambar deer often come down to the shore to drink.

Periyar became a tiger reserve under Project Tiger in 1978. Its forests are home to tigers, leopards, wild dogs, the lion-tailed macaque and the Nilgiri langur, along with hornbills and many other birds. The reserve's eco-tourism programmes, such as nature walks, bamboo rafting and border hikes, are run with people from nearby communities, many of whom once depended on the forest for a living.

The hills around Kumily are planted with cardamom, pepper, coffee and other spices, and many estates offer guided walks. Kathakali and Kalaripayattu performances are staged in the town most evenings.